The first repair that someone used a black stained glue for is holding nicely so I'm not planning to do anything to those cracks unless the repair falls apart or starts to crumble once I clean the stock. The current state looks like a result of at least two previous repairs. As far as I can tell there is no complete break as one side of the wrist looks pretty nice, but who knows how deep those cracks go. Until it is fully cured, it won't have its claimed 3960 psi strength. JB Weld which is a very strong epoxy for instance takes 4 to 6 hours just to set up and 15 to 24 hours to fully cure. As an example of this, the "fast cure" epoxies are actually rather weak and their bonding strength is low, while the epoxies that take hours to set up are quite strong with very high bonding strengths. I mention this because different epoxies have different bonding strengths. Just because an epoxy is good at filling gaps does not mean it can lock onto wood fibers to hold them together. I haven't worked with Acraglas but I was always under the impression that it is a material made for bedding a barrel or filling gaps so, I don't know how strong it is for holding a joint together.
#ACRAGLAS STOCK CRACK REPAIR FREE#
If the wood was totally oil free the bonded joint would be 1 3/8" in diameter. For instance, if the broken area was 1 3/8" in diameter and the bonded area was 1/2" smaller than that because the wood within 1/4" of the outside of the stock was contaminated with oil, the bonded joint would be only 7/8" in diameter. Also, the further out from the center of the break the bond is, the greater the strength of the joint. The catch is, the greater the amount of area that is bonded, the stronger the joint will be. That said, I doubt that any oil that was used to finish a stock will penetrate much deeper than 1/4 inch even after many years so, the wood that is deeper than that should be capable of having an epoxy bond to it. It's just my opinion but I think using something to remove the oil that may be in the wood at the joint is a good idea.Įpoxies will not bond to anything that has oil in or on it. I have multiple cracks to repair mainly in the wrist area. I'll be reinforcing it with threaded rod. I'm planning to use acraglas gel as glue. I'm not writing this to question his methods, but to find answers if I really do need to "scrub the stock with hot soapy water" multiple times, soak in turpentine and/or acetone for weeks? Or can I simply glue the wood as is if it is not visibly oil soaked? The article claims every old gun stock has oil in the wood and every glue repair will fail sooner or later if every last bit of that oil is not removed prior to gluing. While I saw multiple videos of Mark simply gluing stocks without bathing them in acetone for ages etc. When is de-oiling a stock necessary before using epoxy glues? A written article I read recently makes a very convincing case for the usage of and describes a very elaborate de-oiling procedure as an absolute prerequisite for any and all gluing. I have been researching fixing stocks by reading all I can find and watching YouTube videos of actual repairs mainly done by Mark Novak from C&rsenal channel and I can't find an answer to one important question.
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